Our second day in Rome was a busy one, with lots of sites to see and only one day to see them before leaving on our Mediterranean cruise. We got an easy start around 9 AM with coffee and pastries at the bar down the street from our hotel and then booked a taxi with the FreeNow app to take us to the Spanish Steps.
I have to give a shout out to the FreeNow app – it made booking a taxi for 6 very easy throughout Rome. Especially on this day, when we did some walking between sites, but also needed to get from our hotel and back, it made our lives much easier.
The Spanish Steps are a lovely spot just to sit and enjoy the activity around you. My Mom and I sat about halfway up while everyone else raced up and down the stairs. It was a beautiful spot to watch the piazza and just BE. Compared to the bigger sites (Trevi, Colosseum, Vatican) there were also FAR fewer people in the area, which was a nice respite from the crowds.
Eventually, we made our way back down the steps and headed off towards the Piazza Navona. The walk through this part of Rome was lovely – lots of flowers, little shops and people just meandering around. The Piazza Navona, however, was crowded due to the fitness and games festival being hosted by the Italian Army. There were all kinds of fun activities for kids to jump into. Our teenager even braved the language barrier to challenge someone to a game of ping pong. It was a lovely diversion!
We walked on, just wandering through the windy little streets and then we stumbled on Two Sizes, a tiny tiramisu shop that had been advertised as The Best Tiramisu in Rome. Based on a glowing recommendation from our favorite YouTube Vloggers, The Pasinis, we decided to give it a try. We ordered 2 original, 1 salted caramel and 1 strawberry. OH. MY. GOODNESS!! It was the best tiramisu I have ever had (and I am a great lover of tiramisu)! If you are in Rome, you must try it. They have 2 sizes (hence the name) and the small size is only 2.5 euros! Worth every penny. Plus, the cashier was very friendly and also very excited to help me work on my Italian (He cheered when I said fragola (strawberry) correctly).
Rather fortuitously, Two Sizes is right by an amazing sandwich shop called Barretta Pesce e Porchetta, which had a really delicious pork roll. According to the tour guide who brought her tour into the restaurant while I was waiting for my order, it is one of the special traditional makers of this kind of pork (with herbs and such rolled inside of it). We shared a HUGE sandwich between us and everyone enjoyed it.
Our tummies full, we headed off towards the Largo di Torre Argentina, more commonly recognized as the site where Julius Cesar was murdered. The actual ruins were closed for repairs, so we were only able to view it from above, but we enjoyed trying to figure out where the stabbing took place, based on the description from the monument plaque.
This historic site, which was by far the least crowded of any we visited, also houses a famous Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary. This was probably the favorite part of the day for our kids, who deeply love cats and spent a lovely 20 minutes petting the cats who live at the Sanctuary full time. The Sanctuary operates as a shelter for feral cats, as well as operating a trap, neuter, release program. They operate fully with volunteers and on a donation basis, so be sure to show your support if you stop to pet the kitties.
As we continued on our way towards the Bocca della Verita (mouth of truth) we stumbled upon the most beautiful ruins of any we saw in Rome. Our route took us straight through the Jewish Ghetto and then across the Portico d’Ottavia, the ruins of an ancient Roman walkway, and right past both the Templi di Apollo Sosiano e di Bellona and the Teatro di Marcello. The whole area was a stunning surprise that I am so grateful we stumbled into. The Teatro di Marcello, in particular, held me captive. Wild poppies grew all over the ruins, and there was something so fascinating to me about this building, commissioned by Julius Cesar, now in ruins and surrounded by new life. To see something that existed over 2000 years ago, here, in my time, with my red shoes on and my iPhone camera clicking away . . . I giggled to myself at the juxtaposition of then and now.
This is what time does. It makes ruins of the old while the new stumbles through. When I look up at a building that has been there for such a very long time, I think about all the people who have stood where I am standing. What were they doing? Probably not on a leisurely tourist walk, like I am. If I place my hand on this stone, whose palm print does mine sit in? Who were they? I’m grateful that I have the privilege to lay my hand here and ask the question.
More to come as we hop on a cruise ship and sail the Mediterranean!
B
